Классический женский двубортный жакет. Построение лацкана и воротника. Часть 1. Урок 28. - YouTube  See details »

 
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  • 00:00: [music] new video course this valuable benefit collected all necessary information for tailoring female jacket it shows in detail and clearly every stage of work and making all technological nodes get ours course modeling and tailoring female jacket from a to z [music] good afternoon you are on the fashion practice channel we remind you that our video comes out every day today we continue the series literacy lessons but
  • 00:32: why because it is very necessary we do it and of course this lesson and a few more lessons we will devote classic women's jacket many of You already bought the course and there single breasted jacket with a dead side with a dart coming out of the seam side and steel wai tuck and in the carved leaflet today I I want to talk to you about double-breasted
  • 01:04: jacket on under the blood barrel with dart out of pocket nothing changes in technology nothing changes in technology only the work is changing now here which i will show technology as shown no element and technologically unchanged at first I I want to put a new armhole line well 5 millimeters of course that's here, and he expand and millimeter half deepen from the shoulder seam to the beginning here it is prime rounds and a straight line are not necessary
  • 01:37: draw under the ruler ruler here is inappropriate but none the less when so here you look than different good italian and branded stuff from just such a model Krasnodar or elsewhere when it's this the line is very beautiful it is in such a smooth and beautiful and so look here so here i am rounding it this is not the final armhole here yet
  • 02:40: let's open a little waist and tuck chest and slightly be open the shoulder hump for to make a product double-breasted them you need to add to the center of the front from 6 to 8 cm in 6 is when such an easy thing 7 it is not on the small size and 8 on more already so big well when There 65 64 sizes can be added and 9 but we'll add 8 centimeters here this is our center before the line we add
  • 03:12: eight add 8 cm 8 centimeters in we are the floor of a drift learn to work correct with terms This is the line I am applying now. edge center front
  • 03:45: this is the distance 8 the next stage determine the location of the first Buttons double breasted jacket certainly not I want to close his trial here I want the first buttons to be like this under the breast seven eight nine centimeters across the chest here's what were the first buttons so very beautiful we did not press this double-breasted collar well here from the top of the chest about
  • 04:18: centimeters take 7 location first buttons two grades up from levels first buttons up one and a half to two two centimeters but how is my size and
  • 04:48: there is still and who has 44 42 and so on one and a half centimeters here take this is the beginning lapel break lines we are ready from bottom builds the inflection lines lapel but we are still undecided on shoulder where do we have the inflection line one and a half centimeters lapel open our cutout all the work on one and a half is like ours
  • 05:20: new cutout to our jacket not I went straight collar under the ears a little bit grew to drive a neck it's called a half in the center of the back can be removed 07 08 to one centimeter here in the center backs it is clear that this is what we will cut [music] the beginning of our shelves here she shifted
  • 06:02: here by half a centimeter now from start shelving side put aside 2 here this distance is 2 centimeters and this one point two we connect with the beginning of the bend lapel inflection line lascana once again remind the first
  • 06:41: buttons you must determine where you will be 1 button but I decided that so a little under the breast but in every jacket it’s different and I’m from top of chest down put aside 7 centimeters here this level here I have 1 button but that doesn't mean everything jacket and now there will be no We look at the starting point of our shelves new beginning shelves where we are a little bit shoulder shifted lay down nine with half centimeters
  • 07:12: is it possible to do exactly parallel here This line here, but since we have this already has a slope light start tuck there and and so almost parallel and we do it we do relatively center give a slight tilt nine half and now spend the perpendicular to the center forehand nine and a half and
  • 07:49: perpendicular to the center of the front now from this perpendicular down postpone one and a half centimeters is completely it doesn't matter what we build collar at a certain height and you once do another time you want some other numbers now I really want you to understand how I am
  • 08:21: got these two lines this one and this one this we got them this angle from beginnings of our shoulder nine and a half held perpendicular to the center of the front and have let it go one centimeter and connected point one point 9 and 5 and got a little slant line up resulting in we got a point the intersection of this corner here slippie
  • 08:51: gebo lapel here it is the point of intersection our new or wait inflection line lapel here it is and this is the intersection with center of the front but we now have bend lapel and here begins creativity hour we already from the line of inflection lapel should build our collar i I propose to build it now
  • 09:23: this line from the inflection line of the lapel we will take 8 with half centimeters and this line this point to connect with the point of inflection lapel I first spend a pencil someone likes to use such sabers
  • 09:53: you draw such a beautiful line a little bit a bit millimeter by 3 such a concave outward and from this point it is possible here raise a centimeter to 2 too
  • 10:28: will be beautiful now I will take some another marker and circle the edge where we are already ready to cut the request I have not write that in books is not so nothing maybe because we are
  • 10:59: here everyone has developed a place and here we will design the collar now I cut off this edge if you watched carefully the output is in remember how it happened here here is our collar lapel someone wants wider someone else something that wants something different but i
  • 11:30: I want to convey to you today because that this topic is complex and I know very many suffer see what I need now if i translate this one this one cutout chant absolutely any absolutely any this collar could go down it
  • 12:06: these two lines could leave too could be both higher both lower could be very narrow very wide excavation absolutely unimportant and show you now principle to the shoulder seam here is this point of the vertices of someone coincided with
  • 12:36: shoulder seam so I drew the collar now we shift this point at least here by centimeter it is by design so it is necessary. to the shoulder seam and over here up we need to extend the length of the germ we have a sprout Well, let it be here, here measure let it be nine centimeters I always I take more on trial 1 trial collar
  • 13:07: 9 center of the back she we have it then when let's open it with us a little bit will tilt until we have a right angle rear 8 centimeters on the shoulder 8 centimeters here so that was not round first let's get this line
  • 13:39: was also on 0 5 will do the concave you just follow me all this here is the center of the back now it 's not all this is not the final collar in the shoulder area of ​​course you can not take it
  • 14:10: wide because he will later lie on the shoulder, and then will be more fitting and in while examples of all this can we still modify or from the center of the back a little bit back down let's a little bit
  • 14:40: this collar y so three times in the back parts apart why nowadays like this collar and because our modern fabrics but not very amenable to this stretch marks and so on so we need build such a collar that much then do not pull away like that millimeter on 3 like this open and now we have it redraw on a clean piece of paper and check with see our shelf what form acquire through this discovery
  • 15:10: this is our common thread as was the center before but it bends a little who do not like this one corner sew collar this corner here please
  • 15:41: love without him jacket jacket from and when like that just take a niche round neckline shit this is not a jacket this is so parody point save to the shoulder seam I want to show you what you see
  • 16:37: what happened and what a difficult topic we with you passed about her to her well I hope you have enough patience because everyone wants have jackets excuse me need to be able to do it all no nowhere nowhere nowhere nowhere This is me. I just want to have a club here. for the image a little bit that's not the one here this could not be done now
  • 17:10: look along the inflection line of the lapel we we bend our collar down the line kink lapel and here we have it part goes back someone wants make wider someone wants higher and lower someone will want to do another form once cap imagine what kind of collar you are want to and already deal with him further we are with you have passed
  • 17:40: but rather complicated edge construction board lapel grows and collar for double breasted jacket on this we finish our video because it's already very much with the same design we we will work on competent lessons modeling the next video and then we with you we will go barchuk how to build dart out of pocket as a little open understand how to b how to do more look at this rocket on this picture on our sketch we did not invest in one lesson because
  • 18:12: already very much like a dachshund and difficult jacket requires professionalism but i think in professionalism of our business as it is but you can somehow come to him one operation learned the second after her the operation behind it is third piracy to us pupils are coming already and they have cut off their coats and by many coats they already have both themselves and daughters of course it pleases I really hope that I am with you Today gave but such a difficult complex tinku topic I think that you have
  • 18:42: everything will work out subscribe our channel look into our fabric boutique share ours Video all good with you, I was on ears 3 on Mikhailovna and our whole team [music]