Galina Kulakova

Saved 11/20/15 7:22 AM to SEWING LESSONS

How To Sew A Rolled Hem  See details »

 
Video subtitles:
  • 00:00: okay let's learn how to make a rolled hem on a silk scarf first of all the silk that you're going to get from me is torn that's the best way to get it into smaller pieces with straight sides that are even the downside is you're going to get some little tiny hairs along the torn edge so I like to clip those off and I use Karen Kay Buckley's perfect scissors to get the hair off they're these little bright green handled
  • 00:31: serrated blades I really like them they do a great job and they're really easy to use so I'll just trim all the way down until I see those horizontal threads and the reason I want to do this is later when I fold the raw edge over I'm aiming for a specific measurement I'm looking for about an eighth of an inch and I don't know whether to start measuring from here the top of the hair or down here where the fabric really
  • 01:03: starts so I want to get rid of the hair that makes that all much much easier and these scissors are really great because they grab each of the fibers with those C rated edges downside is going to make a little bit of a mess so if you take a little masking tape thing or clean up your work surface now I'm going to thread up a needle with bright orange thread so you can see it I'm leaning
  • 01:34: over a camera which is mounted to a pedestal which is not the most comfortable with so but it's the only way I can get you to see what I'm talking so looking out of one eye squinting here all right I also want to condition my thread and I use thread heaven which is a really unusual kind of product I don't know what's in it but it's kind of cool
  • 02:06: you take the thread and place it on the thread heaven and then you just draw a thread across it and it makes it so that the thread hardly ever does a slip knot and if it should create a knot where you don't want it obviously then it's very easy to come to and take it out I also do a mama's not know I lift my finger and I roll it over and then I twist and pull and I get a big honking wet loopy
  • 02:37: knot which okay it's weird but I like it it stays in that's my big thing I'm not a fan of the rolled or RAF knot that's just me okay so to start I'm going to insert my needle about an eighth of an inch from the top and pull this through that's where my knots going to live in you know if I had a brain I'd probably clip that tail I should have done it
  • 03:08: before this way I risk cutting this look okay and I'm going to gently turn this over about 1/8 of an inch and I'm going to take a little stitch down here grabbing maybe 3 or 4 threads of the silk pull that through now if this was straight up and down you can see where the hole is
  • 03:38: where that orange thread is exiting I'm going to go about that same distance away and this time I'm going to take a really pretty long stitch almost about I'd say a 1/2 an inch I'm just going to draw this thread up a little bit not all the way top here's what the thread is exiting I drop my needle straight down to that raw edge of the silk right below it not catching the raw edge just the silk underneath it teeny tiny stitch pulling that through and move along now I'm back up at the top where the roll is
  • 04:08: and I take a very long stitch about a half inch pull that through right below where the thread is eggsy I take another little stitch teeny tiny stitch pull my thread do-don't you've noticed I'm left-handed I could do this right-handed but it would be about a three-hour video so apologies to all you right-handed people and I can just hear all the lefties going you be finally somebody who
  • 04:39: demonstrates lefty but the idea is to keep the thread going in a predictable and up parallel I guess if you can look at the vertical orange threads here see they're all going straight up and down and you have them in pairs so this is where you take a little stitch down here and this is where you take the long stitch up here little stitch down there long stitch over here a little stitch
  • 05:09: down there long stitch over here finally I've ended up with a long stitch on this side I'll do it again just a couple more times teeny tiny stitch and again I'm using a bright orange and fairly thick thread so that you can see it in real life I would use the thinnest thread I can handle durably and it should match something some of the thread will show but sometimes you just can't help that just part of having a rolled him and if I can
  • 05:40: catch those knots before I pull taut they're much easier to come out see if I can stay in front of the camera lens my choices either see the work or see the back of the camera there we go now that I've got done this series and you've got it all the way back to that first loop
  • 06:11: now you'll see what's so cool about it because I'm basically just going to pull that thread look what happens that's slick and now I've pulled all the way back to the knot and I always want to stroke it just a little bit to get rid of any excess tension so that when I'm done it will lay flat now this is hyper magnified I mean my finger is huge in there look at the ugly nail okay flip it over and you can see just barely that orange thread you will see some stitches
  • 06:45: along there and that's just part of having that rolled hem so if I can adjust light even more so that you can see that better hard to tell okay let's get back at it and I'll show you again I always try and end my thread in that top and that role of the silk let it drop when you go straight down below it take the small stitch pull the top okay
  • 07:15: I'm running into my hair again hairy silk grab those perfect little scissors just give it a little hair there's also something very satisfying about doing this part I don't know it just makes me happy because you can see any of that now you can see what I did at least and you can always go back and reach room if you want don't obsess about this just
  • 07:45: get the hair and get rid of the closet left okay so here I am back here on the left I want to gently roll that over insert my needle in the rule fairly long stitch basically the reason you're doing a short stitch and long stitch is because if you did short stitches the whole way across it'd take you forever
  • 08:15: you can get away with a fairly long stitch with this this is great activity in a very well-lit room watching TV talking to your friends it's just very calming once you get the hang of it and that doesn't take too long now as I've been working I've noticed that if I were to take a pin and just stick it down here in the part I've already done at an angle push it all the way down and that gives me like a third hand so I can get
  • 08:47: a little pressure pulling on this and I tends to help me go a little bit faster it's not a race but you know got other things to do see how fast that was well two stitches screeching okay and it's very important when you insert that long stitch that it's not going through to back you just want it to go in between the two layers of silk right there
  • 09:19: if I open it up I can show you that's where it is it's not sticking to anything until I poke it back out this way and if you need to confirm you can always roll it over and check that nothing is showing not these little loops here that you see that's what's going to get pulled against the surface of this silk when you're done and that will show again that's why you use matching thread and it's just a teeny tiny stitch okay now I'm going to move the camera a
  • 09:49: little bit seek I'm not moving the camera and moving my surface here by the way I'm sewing on a quilters portable workstation which is a recycled blue jeans made into a pillow cover and it's a wonderful surface to hand to hand work on it's got pockets for thread and a little caddy for sin Roland scissors everything you might need okay get a little more hair in here so I click that the patterns on my web page but it's not
  • 10:20: for the faint of heart because it has like 62 different steps but they're all small and easy to follow steps which is why I did that it's also great for people with a zipper phobias you're going to put in some zippers and maybe not in the usual way it's a fun project and then you have a really great tool cable the hair here okay and continue again a little pressure with that pan that I put way over to the
  • 10:52: left that you can't see anymore that's really helpful slide the needle in between the layers of silk and little stitch and one more long stitch okay now Santa Co watch it disappear and then stroke and that's pretty much how
  • 11:24: you do a rolled hem and it looks rolled on this side I guess that'll be the wrong side and then when you flip it over you will see a little bit of the orange thread because that's what I use and try to see if I get that in the light you may just have to trust me on it there it gets you a little bit of the orange thread you'll use matching thread so it'll be fine and of course I have to fix your nails and do polish and all that before you
  • 11:55: start sewing yeah right have a good time hold on you might want to know how to do a corner here we are coming up to one and the best thing to do is to have your stitch come out on the top on the roll about an eighth of an inch away from the raw edge of the new side so right about there and you can fudge the length of your stitches here shorten them up just so that you get to that point pull
  • 12:26: stroke to make sure you haven't over pulled and then here's the trick you're going to roll that one down as if it were nailed right where it wanted to be and take a stitch right through just one layer all the way to the top like that pull that and then I unpin it from my work surface rotate the entire scarf and you'll see
  • 12:57: where I started over there and oh just a little tug to get it in place roll this over and you just continue sewing next stitch goes down here is the teeny one next it goes on the top and it is a little difficult to get that stitch in there because you don't have the benefit of the pin holding the scarf to
  • 13:27: your work surface so you have to hold everything in your hands okay pull the top now I'm going to come back and take my stitch underneath this stitch right here just like before okay and I like to pull it and see if it's going to work out okay so let's just get a little tug just a wee little top and then you've got a nice straight corner ready to
  • 13:57: continue there you go have fun