Natalija Kudriavceva

Saved 11/19/13 3:18 PM from Hairdresses

▶ HAIR SET # 17 (RUS) - YouTube  See details »

 

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Video subtitles:
  • 00:48: Dear colleagues and fans! I am Alexander Kuvvatov. Today I present you the HAIR SET video magazine, issue #17. This issue consists of three parts.
  • 01:00: First you’ll watch Elena Hlebnova-Chernyavska, one the best hairstylists from Latvia, perform the creative hair coloring. In the 2nd part, Kristians Spalins, the world class master, performs the Mohawk haircut for men. In the 3rd part of our video magazine presents you some basics of Axiom hair coloring namely, the Axiom High Lift Color Washout technique, intended to remove hair color. All topics in HAIR SET video magazine are based on research and projects conducted according to the AXIOM international system.
  • 01:34: For more information on AXIOM system and teaching material refer to our website www.hiar-club.ru. Video courses and relevant books are available for sale in our online store on www.axiomshop.ru
  • 02:13: First, you need to curl all the hair with hair rollers. The placement of hair rollers depends on the color pattern you wish create. Here we section out the strands in a pattern commonly used in curling.
  • 08:00: Apply the high-lift mixture to the hair, which is not rolled in. In order to enhance the outcome color foil the hair strands.
  • 11:04: Allow appropriate dwell-time, and wash the hair just with water. In order to enrich the outcome color, apply the color bath. After that, wash the hair with a stabilizing shampoo and apply a hair mask.
  • 11:41: Section the hair in horseshoe shape. Use a clipper-over-comb technique to fade the hair on the sides.
  • 12:00: Draw the comb along the targeted line of fading.
  • 17:19: Continue at the nape, fade the hair moving upward; use the clipper-over-comb technique.
  • 19:13: Now, outline the haircut.
  • 20:28: In the fringe, section out the hair horizontally and set the desired shape of the haircut.
  • 21:16: On top, at the middle part, establish the guideline for cutting the hair at front. Use vertical partings to connect the hair on the sides with the guideline in the middle.
  • 22:37: Texturize the roots at the front section using the razor.
  • 23:26: Use the thinning shears to soften the fade.
  • 24:26: Now I would like to announce my seminar schedule for the nearest future.
  • 24:31: On September 11 and 12, in Yekaterinburg, I will conduct master classes in hair cutting and hair coloring. которые будут проходить с 11 утра до 4 вечера с небольшими перерывами.I am going to conduct several sessions a day with short breaks from 11 am to 4 pm. On September 16–19, in Arkhangelsk, I will hold a course in men’s hair cutting. On November 1 – 5, in Cherepovets, I will hold an advanced course in hair cutting. On October 8–11, I am going to visit Nizhnij Tagil to hold the course in men’s hair cutting.
  • 25:00: On October 14–17, in Volgograd, Natalia Grigorieva will assist me in holding an advanced course in Art of Color. On October 18–21, also in Volgograd, I welcome you to visit my advanced course in haircutting. On October 24 – 27, Natalia Grigorieva and I will visit Omsk, to hold the basic course in Art of Color. For more information on the schedule, contact the coordinators in your city.
  • 25:41: The methods of hair color removal are commonly used to prepare the hair for coloring. Earlier we’ve discussed the acid washout. Today I am going to tell you about the advanced high-lift color washout. It is a common practice to mix equal parts of bleaching powder and peroxide for lightening.
  • 26:03: This kind of proportion actually has one flaw. You see the pH level in shampoo and water is rather high, so, they do not reduce the alkalinity of the bleaching mixture down to the necessary level. Peroxides are as well incapable of reducing the alkalinity of the bleach down to the level where it becomes harmless for the hair. The advanced formulas of a hair dye washout account for this quality of a bleaching powder
  • 26:34: and aim to provide proper color lift without damaging the hair texture.
  • 27:10: For the color washout, you should take low-strength peroxide, because it provides gradual hair lightening. Now, apply the color washout mixture to the dyed hair. Apply plenty of the mixture all over hair. In the border between dyed and undyed hair sections, apply the mixture in zigzag.
  • 27:31: Our model here had her hair dyed in a salon. Due to the quality of the performed procedure, the roots are not over-processed. If your client cannot recall, so to say, the history of his/her hair coloring, take a strand test in order to decide upon the sequence in which you apply the high-lift mixture to the hair sections. As you are aware, the overloaded hair needs more time or more mixture to lift up the color. Dwell time is optional. I recommend a 20 minute dwell time. However, this may be not enough for the color to lift up to the desired level.
  • 28:01: In this case, draw the bleach off the hair with a towel and apply a new portion of mixture. This way you’ll manage to maintain the smoothness and continuity of the bleaching process without weakening of atomic oxygen.
  • 29:56: Always have a paper towel at hand when you work. You need to keep your hands clean!
  • 34:49: After the dwell time, rinse the mixture off, then wash the hair with a stabilizing shampoo. You may as well use the deep cleansing shampoo first and then the stabilizing one.
  • 35:14: Start at the roots. Then apply the dye down to ends (no extra dwell time for the mid-length is needed) Prepare the coloring mixture of the dye and 6% peroxide taken in a regular 1:1.5 proportion. For the mid-length, prepare the “bristle mixture” with less amount of peroxide (1:1 proportion).
  • 35:30: Remember, you need to consider the lightened background color you have after the washout. Here we have the orange-yellow background color, which allows us to dye it a level 7 without any need to neutralize the outcome color. If we use stronger peroxide we can dye our model’s hair Level 8. However, this background is not of proper color for lifting up to level 9, because the orange pigment is too bright for this.
  • 36:10: The dwell time is determined by the peroxide. If you use 6% peroxide, like we do here, allow a 45 minute dwell time.
  • 42:28: After the dwell time, lock the color with an amphoteric shampoo, then apply a hair mask.
  • 42:35: As you may see, with an appropriate strand test and algorithm of work you can achieve exactly what you plan. You can see, the hair texture is not damaged at all. Generally, it is the same as it was before dyeing. This means we’ve managed to kill two birds with one stone - we lifted the hair color up to the desired level, and we kept the hair texture in good condition.
  • 43:14: Feel free to share your experience with us! Make the video of your work and sent it to us. We will gladly take your experience into consideration when preparing the HAIR SET video magazine. For more HAIR SET videos, please subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and join our groups on Facebook and Vkontakte.
  • 43:34: If you wish to master the techniques of the AXIOM system, consider our products available in the online store AXIOMSHOP.RU. Never forget our motto “Art and Science cannot exist without each other!” You’ve watched HAIR SET video magazine, issue #18. We’ll be back with you next month!