Natalija Kudriavceva

Saved 11/19/13 3:18 PM from Hairdresses

▶ Hair Set # 12 (RUS) - YouTube  See details »




Video subtitles:
  • 00:42: Dear colleagues and fans! I am Alexander Kuvvatov. Today I present you the HAIR SET video magazine, issue #12. We have interviewed our viewers and here is what we found out. The majority of HAIR SET viewers would like us to present more of the tutorials on hair cutting and hair coloring basics, not just the advanced techniques. Last month the Hair Set gave some basic tips on haircutting. In this issue, Hair Set provides some hair coloring basics.
  • 01:02: Besides, today in our Video Ring, you'll witness the fight between two methods for neutralizing undesired pheomelanin. Before we begin, let's take a look at the history of the HAIR CLUB Company. This year HAIR CLUB celebrates its 5th anniversary. Thanks to the tremendous work accomplished by our team in the past five years, HAIR CLUB has advanced a lot. In 2008, HAIR SET launched a two-year social project THE PHOTOSEASONS During this project my colleagues and I performed some rather ambitious photo sessions.
  • 01:30: Within this project, we completed 12 photo collections, which were willingly published in the magazines worldwide. THE PHOTOSEASONS project gained much benefit from participation of well-known hair stylists Victor Uksusov, Edward Trishkin, Aleksey Yaroslavzev, Olga Kolesnikova, Anna Mresova, Evgeniy Anvarov, Marina Maluta, Svetlana Kuznezova, Lazar Tropynin, Alexander Gladyshenko, Alexander Sokolov. Photo shoots for THE PHOTOSEASONS took place in five Russian cities: Moscow, Novosibirsk, Nizhniy Novgorod, Rostov-on-Don, and Ufa.
  • 02:02: In five years HAIR CLUB Company shot a great deal of video tutorials and videos for commercial and advertising purposes HAIR CLUB issued thirty six DVD tutorials in hair dressing based on my own work and the experience of world-class masters Edward Trishkin, Viktor Uksusov, Katerina Gordeeva, Alexander Artenyev, Erika Zimura and other. HAIR CLUB Company is also engaged in publishing. We have already published 5 hardcopy books and 4 electronic books.
  • 02:36: These books were published in English and Russian languages. Among them there is THE ART OF COLOR which is an exclusive brand unrelated professional tutorial in hair coloring. During past five HAIR CLUB also held purpose-oriented seminars and master classes in more than 40 cities in Russia and abroad.
  • 03:01: The promotion activity of HAIR CLUB includes cooperate with a great deal of Russian and foreign companies. Together we prepared several tutorials and organized commercial photo sessions. During the past five HAIR CLUB completed over 4 photo collections that were published in magazines world-wide. In 2013 HAIR CLUB has launched its own production of haircutting tools
  • 03:30: which will be available for sale this summer. In 2012 I have started the new project, the HAIR SET video magazine. With this project I and my colleagues aim to share our experience and improve the overall quality in our profession specifically in cities and towns which rarely host seminars and master classes of hairstylists. Currently HAIR SET video magazine has over 5,000 followers including YouTube subscribers and those are registered in social networks. HAIR SET is an independent social project which is a great scene for self-expression with no creativity restrictions.
  • 04:02: We are just getting picking up steam and we plan to proceed with conquering new heights! There is a lot more to share: what has been accomplished and what is being planned for the nearest future. There is just one thing I am sure of This is all just the beginning of passionate and rapidly improving performance of my team. Now, let us proceed with the VIDEO RING, the most anticipated block, I suppose, which was announced back in February Today we are going to witness the competition between two different methods for neutralization of hair pigment with mixtones.
  • 04:40: The video ring competition is assisted by Yekaterina, our full-time model. Let's examine her hair. The roots are level 6. For you to have a better look at the result, we didn't record the color bath procedure, just the hair coloring. For hair coloring we take Wella Koleston Perfect 12/1
  • 05:00: Special Ash Blonde. For the sake of our video ring, we are going to dye the hair at the left side with a dye and mixtones as the technologists of beauty companies recommend us to do. As for the hair at the right side, we will dye it with a dye and the mixtones combined regarding the diffusion of melanin in hair. Now let us discuss some details. Unfortunately, the majority of technologists who work for hair dye manufactures have no professional experience in hair dyeing.
  • 05:31: All the experience the might have is trying a new hair dye on a model or two. This is, by no means, ridiculously insufficient for evaluating the performance of a hair dye. Commonly the technologists tell us that lifting the hair color up to level 10 results in yellowish color which needs to be neutralized with purple mixtone. Unfortunately, none of them bothers about the mechanisms of color transformation,
  • 06:01: for instance, How does the orange color transforms into yellow? You see, pheomelanin in hair is not multicolored and the dye itself does not decide upon the resultant color. Let us talk some chemistry. The pigment in hair is destroyed by atomic oxygen. Pheomelanin consists of very small molecules which are very hard to destroy, much harder than the molecules of eumelanin. The color of pheomelanin is determined by the melanocytes.
  • 06:33: So, under the impact of atomic oxygen melanin is not re-colored, it is actually destroyed. This means that during hair lightening the pigment does not gain new color, as the technologists tell us. The pigments in hair become less in quantity and density, hence the change in color. Now, let us go back to our Video Ring. Our model's hair is level 6, which means that pheomelanin in her hair is orange. We intend to lift her hair color up to level 10 and dye it ash blonde.
  • 07:02: Now, if we consider the hair pigment dissipation we have discussed before, the resultant color will be yellow, which will need neutralization with purple color. If we take blue, we risk to make the roots amazingly greenish! So, if we consider the diffusion of pigments in hair, should deal with orange resultant color, which is to be neutralized with blue color.
  • 07:30: If we try neutralize it with the purple we'll get dirty pink resultant color at the roots. So, here are the conditions under which we applied 12/1 dye with blue mixtone for the right side of the head. And we applied 12/1 dye with purple mixtone to the left side. We intentionally did nothing to the mid-length, neither toning, nor a color bath, in order to make the result of our test coloring visually distinctive. See the result for yourself and make your own conclusions.
  • 08:01: Which way of hair color neutralization will you choose in your work? Work through the cut with horizontal partings. Fade the hair moving down from the top.
  • 08:32: Maintain the volume of the haircut along the rectangular line.
  • 12:22: Use the clipper to outline the haircut.
  • 13:32: Establish the guideline at the middle parting at the crown. Work through the section with vertical partings using the established guideline.
  • 14:48: Connect the temple section and the crown section using vertical partings.
  • 15:25: Texturize the hair at roots at the crown using the razor.
  • 15:30: Hold the razor at the 90-degree angle to the strand. Work through the section strand by strand.
  • 16:07: Texturized roots keep the proper hair volume where it's needed.
  • 16:42: Outline the haircut at the sides.
  • 17:23: The haircut follows the Axiom pattern #2. At the back of the head start cutting at the lower section using vertical partings.
  • 17:34: Maintain oval geometry, use the travelling guide. The angle of cutting is optional depending on how high need the cut to be. When deciding upon the level of the cut also consider the volume and quality of the hair. the volume and quality of the hair.
  • 20:13: Proceed cutting at the upper part at the back of head, use fan-shaped partings. Maintain the straight geometry (also called "square"). This implies cutting the next strand to match the previously cut strand. In order to extent the haircut at front and make a soft transition from graduated
  • 20:32: to volumy form you should use fan-shaped partings.
  • 23:20: At the temples work with floating partings and outward cutting technique from AXIOM System.
  • 26:52: Outline the back of the head.
  • 27:17: Use vertical partings to cut at the fringe section.
  • 28:23: The last step is to bunt cut the hair at the back in order to connect the crown and the back sections
  • 30:06: For more HAIR SET videos, please subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and join our groups on Facebook and Vkontakte. And thank you for your comments on HAIR-CLUB.RU, none of them is left unnoticed. And never forget our motto "Art and Science cannot exist without each other!" You've watched HAIR SET video magazine, issue #12. We'll be back with you next month!