Natalija Kudriavceva

Saved 11/19/13 3:18 PM from Hairdresses

▶ HAIR SET # 16 (RUS) - YouTube  See details »

 

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Video subtitles:
  • 00:48: Dear colleagues and fans! I am Alexander Kuvvatov. Today I present you the HAIR SET video magazine, issue #16. This issue consists of three parts. First you’ll watch Elena Hlebnova-Chernyavska, one the best hairstylists from Latvia,
  • 01:03: perform the creative hair coloring. From the 2nd part of Hair Set you’ll continue leaning the basics of the Axiom international system. Today I’ll show you how to cut the graduated bob. From the 3rd part you’ll get to know some hair coloring basics. Namely, we will discuss how to even out the multi-blond hair color. All topics in the HAIR SET video magazine are based on the AXIOM research and projects.
  • 01:31: For more information on the AXIOM international system visit our website www.hiar-club.ru. AXIOM video courses, tutorials and relevant books are available for sale in our online store www.axiomshop.ru
  • 02:08: Start at the crown. Part the hair with zigzag motion to section out the rectangular block (looks like a rectangle with two zigzag sides). The position of the zigzag parting determines the rectangle. In the rectangle, dissect four vertical hair strands by a zigzag motion.
  • 02:36: In order to make the foil hold on the hair, apply a hair mask to the parts of strands you are not dyeing. Here we use the Wella Magma /89 high-lift dye.
  • 03:01: If you favor softer shades, take any regular hair dye of your choice. Apply the dye strand-by-strand from the ends to the roots. Leave every fourth strand undyed. Foil each strand even if it is not dyed.
  • 11:00: After the appropriate dwell time wash the hair with a stabilizing shampoo and apply a hair conditioner.
  • 11:42: This hair cut is based on the Axiom pattern #4. Part the hair into six sections. Work with vertical partings in all the sections. At the back of the head (section 1), maintain the straight geometry. At the temples and in the intermediate sections, use the concave geometry. Make the intermediate section your reference block.
  • 12:01: Use a 45-degree elevation, and a 90-degree angle of cutting.
  • 14:39: In the intermediate section and on the sides the hair cut follows the concave geometry. So, use a 45-degree elevation, and a 90-degree angle of cutting.
  • 19:41: When you blow dry the hair. Do not lift the roots, extra volume here is not desired. I recommend using the 7-row or the 9-row comb These combs are very handy if you need to give the hair natural volume when you blow dry. I wouldn’t recommend hot-air blow drying, because it dries the hair too strong and fast,
  • 20:00: so you won’t have sufficient time and condition for proper styling.
  • 20:33: Outline the haircut and trim the neck hair.
  • 22:21: Now, about thinning. Many hairdressers favor this technique. However, the reason for hair thinning should be the wish to reduce the volume, not to fix a bad haircut. The bob haircut is all about the form. The sharp and properly created form of the haircut lasts much longer.
  • 22:34: When your work is completed, smooth out the most bulky areas of the haircut. To smooth out the haircut, move through the hair with horizontal partings and blunt cut strategically.
  • 23:01: What is the major challenge in hair coloring? It’s the clients, who change their minds pretty fast, specifically, so to say,I-gave-it-a-thought kind of women. These clients dye their hair black about 20 or 30 times, then they “give it a thought” and decide they want to go blond. Well, the desire for radical change of hair color implies a certain psychological state. What can we do here, other than being both, a shrink and a hairdresser. However, now I want to talk to you about a different type of clients. I call them palettes. Why palettes? Because they constantly with for a different hair color and have their hair dyed so often that the roots resemble a palette,
  • 23:30: which clearly shows the frequency and the quality of hair coloring. However, this may result from the work of a hairdresser who favors darker roots. In any case, what comes out of this color mania is the hair, which has a dull, sometimes greenish, color at the ends, red in the mid-length and natural at the roots. Now I am going to tell you how to even out the color of this kind of hair. Let’s examine the hair of our model. The roots are level 7.
  • 24:00: The root area is a goldish level 8. The small section in the mid-length is level 10. And the ends are clearly level 12. Here is the strategy. Start at the roots. Here we use KEEN 12/61 dye with 12% peroxide. Dwell time for the dye at the roots is 80 maximum.
  • 28:04: In about 20 min after coloring the roots, you should apply the dye to the root area. Here we use 12/61 dye with 9% peroxide to deal with level 8 hair color. In about 20 min before the end of dwell time, you should color the rest of the hair. Here we use 12/61 dye with 9% peroxide to deal with level 10 color.
  • 28:46: I recommend using a silicone hair dye brush when you work at the roots. With this tool, you can apply the dye even to the two-week grown-out roots, avoiding the hair where the dye is already applied. As for silicone dye brush, it comes not handy for dyeing the mid-length,
  • 29:01: especially if you use creamy dyes. So, switch it for a regular hair dye brush.
  • 30:22: After the total dwell time, wash the hair just with water, and apply a color bath.
  • 30:30: For the color bath, we use Italian hair dye Jungle Fever 10/01 and a small amount of purple and blue-black mixtones. You may as well use a level 12 dye to even out the color of the grown-out roots, even if they are of a darker color than the mid-length. However, in this case, you should mix the dye of a targeted color with a level 12 dye in 1:1 proportion.
  • 31:04: There are so many ways of mixing the dyes! The most important thing is to know the peculiarities of different brand dyes. You should realize that every action you make has a certain effect, which you must foresee in order to avoid the undesired outcome.
  • 31:39: Feel free to share your experience with us! Make the video of your work and sent it to us. We will gladly take your experience into consideration when preparing the HAIR SET video magazine. For more HAIR SET videos, please subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and join our groups on Facebook and Vkontakte. Thank you for your comments on HAIR-CLUB.RU, none of them is left unnoticed.
  • 32:04: If you wish to master the techniques of the AXIOM system, consider our products available in the online store AXIOMSHOP.RU. Never forget our motto “Art and Science cannot exist without each other!” You’ve watched HAIR SET video magazine, issue #17. We’ll be back with you next month!